Raniero Mancinelli, an 86-year-old tailor in Vatican City, is one of the last ecclesiastical tailors in Rome. He specializes in crafting religious garments such as cassocks, birettas, and mozzettas. Mancinelli, located near the Vatican, has been inundated with orders as 21 new cardinals are set to be appointed by Pope Francis this weekend, with a third of them relying on his expertise for their outfits.
His workshop is filled with traditional sewing equipment, including an old Necchi machine and large scissors. Assisted by his daughter and grandson, Mancinelli prepares garments using lighter materials compared to luxurious silks of the past, reflecting a trend toward more modest clerical attire initiated by Pope Francis. Cassocks now average around 200 euros ($210) each, illustrating a shift in ecclesiastical fashion towards simplicity.
Mancinelli’s journey into tailoring began by chance, as he was offered a job making cassocks for the Vatican. Over the decades, he has worked under seven popes since founding his business in 1962. He nostalgically recalls the opulence of previous ecclesiastical clothing trends, noting a significant change following the Second Vatican Council. This shift aimed to modernize the Church’s image and align it more with contemporary values.
The tailor still commands respect, having personally crafted garments for the last three popes. However, it is his connections with ordinary clergymen that energize his work, as they provided support during challenging times like the pandemic. He observes a decline in the number of hand-tailored ecclesiastical garments as the industry increasingly turns toward mass production.
Despite the challenges, Mancinelli’s legacy appears secure, as his grandson, Lorenzo di Toro, is learning the trade. Di Toro describes the painstaking attention to detail required for tailoring and has embraced the opportunity to inherit the family business. He respects his grandfather’s skills greatly, considering him a maestro in the craft of ecclesiastical tailoring.
The article highlights the enduring craft of ecclesiastical tailoring exemplified by Raniero Mancinelli, whose business has adapted to modern demands while retaining its traditional roots. His work for new cardinals showcases the trust and reliance church leaders place in skilled artisans. As the industry faces industrialization and declining artisans, the future appears brighter with the involvement of his grandson, ensuring the continuation of this unique craft.
